Knitting Machines

Knitting Machines are no great mystery. They do what they are designed to do—they knit. Basically, they do exactly what a pair of knitting needles can do. But because they automate the process, they are able to produce the finished product much, much faster, and into the bargain, create knitted fabrics of a complexity far beyond the scope of hand knitting capabilities.

In general, there are two types or “categories” of machine, Japanese manufacture and European manufacture. Japanese machines do an excellent job of lighter knits, while the European machines handle a wider spectrum of fabrics.

Japanese machines include STUDIO (Singer), BROTHER, and SILVER REED. These machines generally knit lighter weight fabrics. These fabrics include “fair isle” with floats (which are the little strings strung across the back of the fabric) lace, and knit-woven fabrics, which are of special interest to the sewing brigade in general. Also included in this fabrics list are the variety of simple stitches common to all knitting machines.

On the other hand, the European machines (PASSAP, for instance, is Swiss made) are designed to knit double-knitted (no floats) and textured fabrics. The majority of fair isle fabrics produced are usually destined for sewing machine use.

PASSAP is an excellent example of the European machine. Able to handle a wider range of yarn types than the Japanese models, it also embodies an amazing range of knitting capabilities. PASSAP, in fact, is often referred to as the “Cadillac” of Knitting Machines.

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Advanced Machines

The most advanced models are electronically controlled. Some are even available with built-in tutorials, which means they can practically teach you how to machine-knit as you go. PASSAP was one of the leaders in this field.

“Electronic” actually refers to the patterning system. Output on a standard, non-electronic “Punch Card” machine, for instance, is limited to the width of the punch card itself, usually 24 or 40 stitches. If the number of stitches does not divide evenly, the pattern cannot be successfully knitted.

Electronic machines are completely free of this problem. The only limitation for fabric width is the number of needles available on the main bed.

An electronic stitch pattern can also be manipulated in many ways: you can make it wider, higher, turn it upside down, even reverse the colours, etc. The possibilities are many and mind-boggling.

A Knitting Machine’s “gauge,” or needle size, determine its capabilities. The different gauges are; “fine” for thread-like yarn, “standard” (the most popular) for machine weight yarns, “mid” for normal weight and knitting yarns, and “bulky” (sometimes called “chunky”) for very heavy hand-knitting yarns.

All manufacturers make machines in all of these gauges.

Unfortunately, gauges are not interchangeable. It is impossible, for instance, to knit a bulky yarn on a standard gauge machine. Reason being, the needles on the standard gauge machine are too close together, and the hooks of what are called the “latch needles” are too small for larger yarn. Conversely, fine yarn knitted on a “bulky” machine—which can be done, but who would want to?—will come out looking like a hair net!

There are 3 basic components which go to make up a working Knitting Machine, and these are as follows:

(1) THE MAIN KNITTING BED:

This forms the very heart of a knitting system. The main knitting and patterning functions are here. Hobby Knitting Machines and knitting frames do not have “ribbers” (which make double-knitted fabrics with no “floats” on the back) have only a Main Knitting Bed. “Ribbing,” however, can be reformed manually, through the use of “knitting frames.”

(2) A SHAPING DEVICE:

Machine knitting, in one way, is the very opposite of hand knitting. Hand knitters will try to match the yarn gauge in a purchased pattern, or alternatively calculate out the pattern the “hard way.” Machine knitters, on the other hand, will knit a sample or two, and select the sample they want to follow—the gauge is already determined and selected on the “shaping device.”

The knitter will usually draw the garment at about half scale on a sheet of paper, and insert it into the shaping device. The gauge in rows and stitches is selected, and the shaping device automatically gives specific row-by-row shaping instructions.

Once this garment “template” is drawn, it can be re-used at any time. Compensations are made by the shaping device for any change in gauge. The shaping device is a simple device to use, and saves an incredible amount of time, not to mention greatly reducing the risk of error.

(3) A RIBBING BED:

This devices matches the size and number of needles of the main knitting bed, but is minus the patterning capability. Primarily used for ribbing, the Ribbing Bed greatly expands the capabilities of the Main Knitting Bed.

Made possible is double-knitted fabric (no floats, yet!) along with literally hundreds of different textured/ribbed fabrics.

All 3 of the foregoing are necessary, for efficient machine knitting. Some of them may be dispensed with, but you will not want to do that, as it increases the workload exponentially.

They do what they are designed to do—they knit. Basically, they do exactly what a pair of knitting needles can do. But because they automate the process, they are able to produce the finished product much, much faster, and into the bargain, create knitted fabrics of a complexity far beyond the scope of hand knitting capabilities.

In general, there are two types or “categories” of machine, Japanese manufacture and European manufacture. Japanese machines do an excellent job of lighter knits, while the European machines handle a wider spectrum of fabrics.

Japanese machines include STUDIO (Singer), BROTHER, and SILVER REED. These machines generally knit lighter weight fabrics. These fabrics include “fair isle” with floats (which are the little strings strung across the back of the fabric) lace, and knit-woven fabrics, which are of special interest to the sewing brigade in general. Also included in this fabrics list are the variety of simple stitches common to all knitting machines.

On the other hand, the European machines (PASSAP, for instance, is Swiss made) are designed to knit double-knitted (no floats) and textured fabrics. The majority of fair isle fabrics produced are usually destined for sewing machine use.

PASSAP is an excellent example of a European machine, able to handle a wider range of yarn types than the Japanese models, it also embodies an amazing range of knitting capabilities. PASSAP is often referred to as the “Cadillac” of Knitting Machines.